How To Paint Skirting Boards
Posted by Lee Watkinson | Sultan Khan on 8th Jan 2026
Painting skirting boards well means getting the preparation right and applying paint in thin, even coats. Most problems happen because surfaces weren't properly cleaned or sanded, or because paint was applied too thickly.
This guide covers the complete process, from preparing your boards through to achieving a professional finish that lasts.
Decorating a whole room? Fit skirting boards before painting walls.
If you're installing new skirting as part of a redecoration, fit them first and paint walls after. Fitting boards creates dust that settles on fresh paint, and pushing boards into position scuffs wall surfaces. You'll also need to caulk the top edge of the skirting, which is much easier to touch up when you're painting the walls afterwards anyway.
Tools and materials
What you need
- Sandpaper - medium grit (120) and fine grit (220)
- Sugar soap or TSP solution
- Paint brush - 2-inch angled brush for most boards, 3-inch for tall profiles
- Low-tack painter's tape (at least 50mm wide)
- Dust sheets
- Primer (for bare or untreated wood)
- Paint - gloss, satin, or eggshell finish
- Clean cloths or tack cloth
Synthetic brushes work better with water-based paints because natural bristles go limp when wet. Natural bristles hold oil-based paint better and create a smoother finish with those formulas.
1. Preparation
Preparation determines how well your paint adheres and how long the finish lasts. Most paint failures trace back to poor surface prep.
Clear the area
Move furniture away from walls to create access around the full perimeter. Lay dust sheets along the floor to protect from paint drips and sanding dust.
Clean thoroughly
Clean the skirting boards with sugar soap or TSP solution to remove grease, dirt, and dust. Kitchen skirting boards often have a film of cooking grease that stops paint adhering properly.
Wipe down with clean water after using sugar soap, then let everything dry completely before moving to the next step.
Sand the surface
Sand the surface with 120-grit sandpaper to remove old paint and create a smooth base. Switch to 220-grit for a finer finish. Sand with the grain if you're working with visible wood patterns.
Fill any holes or cracks with wood filler and let it dry completely before sanding smooth. These imperfections become much more obvious once paint goes on.
Use a tack cloth to remove all sanding dust. A vacuum with a brush attachment helps clear dust from grooves and corners before the final wipe.
Painting over existing gloss
Gloss paint needs more thorough sanding because the smooth surface resists adhesion. The key is to sand until the gloss loses its shine completely - you're not stripping the paint off, just roughening the top layer so new paint can grip.
Work more gently on corners and edges, as paint comes off these areas much quicker than flat surfaces. Once sanded, clean away the dust and you can paint with either gloss or satin - both will adhere properly to a keyed surface.
2. Priming
Bare or untreated wood needs primer. If you're painting over existing paint in good condition, you can skip this step and go straight to painting.
Use a high-adhesion primer for bare MDF or wood. A high-build primer is thicker than regular primer, filling small imperfections and creating a smoother surface for the topcoat. If you're working with MDF skirting, check our guide on the best paints for MDF for specific primer recommendations.
Apply primer evenly across the entire surface. Let it dry completely - oil-based primers need 24-48 hours, water-based primers need around 24 hours.
Test dryness by touching the surface lightly with your knuckle. If it feels cool or tacky, it needs more time. Primed boards that feel cool to the touch still contain moisture.
3. Painting application
Choose a high-quality paint in gloss, satin, or eggshell. Water-based paints dry faster and have less smell. Oil-based paints are more durable but take longer to dry.
Loading the brush
Stir the paint thoroughly before starting. Dip the brush about one-third of the bristle length into the paint - no deeper. Tap off excess against the inside of the tin rather than wiping across the rim, which removes too much paint and causes drips down the outside of the tin.
Pour paint into a smaller container rather than working from the tin. This prevents contaminating your paint supply with dust or debris from the brush.
First coat
Start from one corner and work along the board in smooth, even strokes. Paint in the direction of the wood grain if you can see it. Start each new stroke about an inch from where the last one ended, then brush back into the wet edge - this blends strokes seamlessly and prevents lap marks.
Apply thin coats. Thick paint runs, drips, and takes longer to dry. Two or three thin coats create a better finish than one thick coat.
Drying times
Drying times vary by paint type:
- Oil-based paints - 8 to 24 hours between coats
- Water-based paints - 2 to 4 hours between coats
- Quick-dry formulas - 1 to 2 hours between coats
Humidity slows drying. Better ventilation speeds it up. Warmer rooms dry faster than cold ones - aim for 18-24°C if possible. In hot conditions, you can thin oil-based paint by 5-10% with the appropriate solvent to improve flow and reduce brush marks.
Second coat
Once the first coat is completely dry, lightly sand with 220-grit paper to create a smooth surface. Wipe away dust with a tack cloth, then apply the second coat using the same technique.
Most paints need two coats for proper coverage. Dark colours painted over light backgrounds might need three.
Final details
Pay attention to edges and corners - these areas often need extra care. Remove masking tape while the final coat is still slightly tacky to prevent paint lifting away with the tape.
Once everything is dry, inspect for missed spots or drips. Touch up as needed.
Protecting walls and floors
You have two main options for keeping paint off walls: masking tape or cutting in. Most people find masking tape easier, especially on the first attempt.
Using masking tape
Use low-tack painter's tape along the wall where it meets the skirting board. Low-tack tape won't pull paint off the wall when you remove it. Press the tape down firmly to stop paint bleeding underneath.
Remove tape while the paint is still slightly wet. If you wait until it's fully dry, the tape can pull dried paint away with it or leave a rough edge.
Cutting in
Cutting in means painting a clean line freehand without tape. It takes practice but creates neater results once you've got the technique.
Use a 3-inch angled brush. Hold it like a pencil, gripping the handle close to the bristles for better control. Keep the brush horizontal so the long edge stays parallel to the wall.
Load the brush lightly - too much paint causes drips. Start painting about 2 inches from corners, using a single stroke to push paint onto the surface. Work from wet areas back towards dry, sweeping gently over what you've just painted to eliminate brush marks.
Paint in short bursts, adding just a little paint to the brush each time. This helps maintain straight lines more easily than trying to do long stretches in one go.
Protecting carpet
Carpet fibres often touch the base of skirting boards, making protection trickier than with hard floors. A few options work well:
Lift the edges. If you can, fold the carpet back from the walls. This keeps it completely out of harm's way, though you'll need to be confident you can refit it afterwards.
Wide masking tape. Hoover the carpet edge first so tape adheres properly. Use low-tack tape at least 50mm wide - the wider the better. Slightly overlap the skirting board, then gently push the excess tape underneath.
Cardboard strips. Cut thin cardboard (cereal boxes work well) into strips and slide them between the skirting and carpet as a barrier. Cheap and effective.
Carpet protection film. Rolls of self-adhesive film provide the most reliable protection, though they're more expensive than the other options.
Gloss finish techniques
Gloss paint shows every imperfection, which is why preparation matters even more than with satin or eggshell. A few techniques help achieve that high-sheen professional finish.
Brush technique for gloss
Apply gentle pressure, letting the brush expand slightly as you move along the board. Finish each section with a light upward stroke to smooth out the paint before it starts to set.
Don't squeeze the brush against the surface - this creates drips. Use a light touch and keep a steady hand.
Between coats
Lightly sand between coats with 220-grit sandpaper. This creates better adhesion and a smoother final finish. For the absolute best results, sand the final coat with 400-grit once touch-dry, then apply one more very thin topcoat.
Yellowing
White and light-coloured oil-based gloss can yellow over time, particularly in rooms with less natural light. If you're painting white or pale colours, water-based acrylic gloss resists yellowing much better than traditional oil-based formulas.
Rookie errors
Brush marks
Problem: Visible brush strokes in the dried paint.
Solution: Use a paint conditioner to extend drying time, allowing paint to level out. Apply thinner coats with long, smooth strokes. Keep a wet edge to prevent overlapping marks.
Orange peel texture
Problem: Paint surface has a bumpy, textured appearance.
Solution: Thin the paint slightly and apply very thin coats. Check that the room temperature is within the recommended range (18-24°C). A foam roller can help for larger flat areas.
Drips and runs
Problem: Paint has pooled or run down the board.
Solution: You've applied too much paint. Load less onto the brush and apply thinner coats. If you spot a drip while still wet, brush it out immediately. Once dry, sand back and repaint.
Paint not adhering
Problem: New paint peeling or flaking off.
Solution: The surface wasn't properly prepared. Sand back to a sound surface, clean thoroughly, and start again. If painting over gloss, make sure you sanded until the shine was completely gone.
Things that make painting easier
- Paint in natural light when possible. Artificial light hides imperfections that become obvious later.
- Keep good ventilation for faster drying and safety, especially with oil-based paints.
- Check your work from different angles to spot thin patches or drips you might miss looking straight on.
- Wrap brushes in cling film between coats if you're taking a break. This stops them drying out without needing a full clean.
- If you're using water-based paint and working around the room, the section you started on is often dry by the time you complete the first coat - making the job quicker overall.
Frequently asked questions
How long does paint take to dry on skirting boards?
Gloss paint is typically touch-dry in 6-8 hours, but wait 24 hours before applying a second coat or subjecting it to any wear. Water-based paints dry faster - usually 2-4 hours between coats.
How much paint do I need for skirting boards?
One litre of paint covers approximately 12 square metres with one coat. Measure the total area of your skirting boards (height × total length) to calculate requirements. Remember you'll need two coats minimum.
Can I paint skirting boards without removing them?
Yes, and most people do. Use masking tape to protect walls and floors, or learn to cut in freehand for cleaner results. The main challenge is protecting carpet - see the section above for specific techniques.
Do I need to prime skirting boards before painting?
Only if they're bare wood or MDF. If you're painting over existing paint that's in good condition, you can skip primer - just make sure to clean and sand the surface properly first.
Should I use gloss, satin, or eggshell on skirting boards?
Gloss is traditional and very durable, but shows every imperfection. Satin offers a subtle sheen with easier application. Eggshell is more forgiving but less hard-wearing. All three work well - it comes down to the look you want and how much prep you're willing to do.
How do I refresh skirting boards that are already painted?
Clean with sugar soap, lightly sand to key the surface (especially important over gloss), remove dust, then apply one or two fresh coats. If the existing paint is in poor condition, you may need to strip it back further before repainting.
Perfectly painted skirting boards
Painting skirting boards well comes down to patient preparation and thin coats. The actual painting takes less time than the prep work, but that preparation determines how good the finish looks and how long it lasts.
Take time with cleaning and sanding. Use proper brushes for your paint type. Apply multiple thin coats rather than one thick one. These basics prevent most common problems.
The finish you get depends more on preparation than painting skill. Get the surface right and the paint will go on well.